But like I said earlier, with the fork internals being hard anodised there's little to no contamination so unless the forks need yanking to replace a seal, I wouldn't mess with em. Make sure to stroke the fork a few times to fill the damper rod and purge any air before measuring the oil level. Tighten the pinch bolts and top caps to the factory-specified torques. Use tie-downs to steady the bike on the jack. Can you change fork oil without removing forks? Adjusting the oil height can be done using the same method described to replace the springs. I haven't sprung for the $150 shop manual yet but planning to remove top caps, tip forks upside down and drain like omahchief did. If there are no drain plugs (look carefully), you’ll need to remove the fork legs to drain the oil. [Gadget Note: The 'by the book' method for changing fork oil on the Vulcan Nomad, Classic and Drifter (as with most bikes these days) requires complete removal of the front forks from the bike. I layed mine where the same plugs, spacers and washers(retrieve when spring is pulled out) went back in as they came out and on same side. It's in your owners manual. Re-install fork screw caps - I found it easier to use a long extension on the socket without the ratchet handle, it helped to push down the spring while getting the thread started, be careful not to cross-thread the tube. Begin by loosening the upper triple-clamp pinch bolts and breaking the fork caps loose while the fork is still held by the lower triple clamp. The oil that I took out of my forks looked like the "silver" oil which the man spoke of that came out of the 35k mile bike. If installing Progressive Springs Cut 2 spacers 3 1/2" long from 1" PVC the thick kind (schedule 40)used in most water pipe applications, remove all burs and smooth even ends. All rights reserved. If they do, you are in luck and will be able to change the oil without removing the fork legs. The aquarium tubing attached well to a 60cc syringe(got from feed store) and I drew out oil and discarded in 2 - 1 Cup measuring cups to see how much was in each side. Working from opposite side of bike. You can see the spring w/ washer on top. The easy way is to drain out the old oil from the plug at the bottom of the fork. Currently running an R6 rear shock and I went ahead and changed my fork oil and seals. Re: Quick Fork Oil Change I don't know about the 99 and newer Birds but the 97-98 forks air gap is set to 6.1" or 154mm. It will move up about 2 inches with spring tension and then no more pressure. Drain front brake system 2. Be prepared as there may be some spring pressure pushing against the cap. It's in your owners manual. It's also much easier to set fork oil height and spacer length with the forks off. Use caution when removing the end cap, there is pressure in there. Install plastic caps, re-install handlebars. I measured 250ml in one cup and 100 ml in other cup. Remove mudguard 2. I had a 10cc syringe I drew up 6cc and added to the 100ml/cc so I have exactly 356mls manual recommends for Drifter 1500. I sucked till it gurgled good. ;D If you've ever changed fork oil you'll remember that the stuff that drains out is nothing like anything you want in your forks- tends to be full of suspended muck that won't do anything good for your seals, bushings, etc. It is very important to make sure it is inplace all the way around. Subscribe • Gotta remove them to drill the drain hole anyway. No need to change the seals if they're not leaking. If you use the centerstand, you may need to place a sandbag on the rear of the seat, hold the front end up using straps from the rafters, or support the bike underneath the engine. Keep everything clean especially anything going into fork tubes and prevent any unwanteds from entry. Remove plug, spacer and washer. I chose not to because they had been in the bike at least since the previous owner had done the fork seals 5000 miles before. Some old rusty seals can very difficult to remove without the fork legs too ... (up on inverted forks) in the seals. I would however recommend that you have someone to hold the fork when it comes time to add more fluid and tighten the cap. Suck this clean too. 2. If the oil is nasty then you may want to pour a little solvent down the fork to wash it out. In this installment of our mountain bike How To series, we are going to be doing a lower leg fork suspension service on a 2020 Fox 36 Factory Series fork. Wet the clean funnel as well as some will stick to it. Use something to pad so you won't mar the tire or wheel. I made the mistake of not doing that and spilled some. In this episode we give you an idea of what's involved in changing the fork seals on your motorcycle, we used an early CBR 600F as the demonstration bike. After the brakes are installed, pump up the lever until the brakes feel normal again. Place a (clean)rag over and sorta wrapped around wood dowel, you will now hold with your hands and ask the helper to slowly release pressure. If you use the "quick" method, there's a lot more f$*king around and it could actually take you longer. Remove the front wheel and axle assembly. Some motorcycles call for the use of a dipstick to determine how much oil to use instead of just pouring a certain amount of oil back in. If they do, you are in luck and will be able to change the oil without removing the fork legs. VERY EASY to remove with the small flatblade screwdriver. 7. Put old newspapers on the floor under the front end. Some motorcycles may require fairings, handlebars, etc. Now with(I used) a wooden dowel the size of a broom handle(easy on hands)about 2' long, have the helper push down on the gold cap dippled in center(shape dowel to fit in here without sliding). They will sorta droop down some, and come to rest against the riser and speedo housing. You can put these back in the bathroom when you're finished and nobody will ever know but you (you hope). Harley recommends that the fork oil on an Ultra Classic be replaced after every 20,000 miles. Good write up Duck. Some suggested I replace them with Progressive springs. Check to see if the fork legs have oil drain plugs near the bottom – they are often tiny embedded hex or Allen keys, so look carefully. Answer: For different motorcycle model, the process is different. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the specific procedure for changing the fork oil on your make and model motorcycle by consulting the service manual. 1- Piece of wire with hook at one end or long bolt so you can lift spring from the fork tube, 1- 3 foot length of craft wire (piano wire or anything thin but fairly stiff), 1- Large (60 cc) syringe (you can probably get one from your vet or a feed store). A rag or paper towel placed under to catch oil drips till ya can stand them up where oil that will run off won't hurt anything(previously picked place). ANSWER: That depends. Repeat the procedure for the other side. 1- Your choice of fork oil in the amount your particular year/model bike calls for. Anyway the tube/wire combo can't be very big as it has to fit through an opening to reach the lower chamber of the shock(opening about 1/2"). Carefully install the threaded top caps by hand to avoid cross-threading. Remove the wheel and pump the lower fork tube up and down until no more oil comes out. Grasp the lower fork legs and try to push and pull the fork toward the back of the bike and forward to check for loose steering head bearings. This is completely optional. Hold the front brake and push down on the fork several times to pump the oil out. There are two ways to go about changing the oil. Put drain screws back in. Hold the front brake and push down on the fork several times to pump the oil out. Once the bike is assembled and on the floor, push down on the front end to verify the suspension’s response. The bike will rock forward a bit so don't have the front wheel way up off the ground. Fork service should be performed according to the motorcycle manufacturer’s recommended intervals. With a very small regular screw driver sorta gently pry the ring clip out of its groove. PS instructions say you can cut the original spacer to 3 1/2" but it is steel. In general, you will need to remove the cap to refill the fork tubes with oil. Add the exact amount and type of oil recommended by the manufacturer. This is typically every year or two; bikes that are ridden hard in extreme conditions (off-road, in deep water, or thick dust) or rack up a lot of miles quickly should be serviced more often. 1- Rubber band. Pad the fuel tank very well, the entire tank and especially pad the speedo area. But do prise off the dust seals and make sure they're really ok first. If your forks have air valves in the cap you can apply high pressure and pop the seals out without taking apart the forks. Check your service manual. Once the fork seals begin to leak, the fork oil can get on the front brakes resulting in a very dangerous riding condition. Carefully remove the chrome plastic fork tube caps. Contact Us, exact amount and type of oil recommended by the manufacturer. Pour new oil into the fork, reinstall the spring and screw on the fork cap, and tighten the bolts. Support and tie the brake caliper(s) out of the way. If in your motorcycle manual, if have any process of refill without removing the fork … Tip the slider upside down and remove the oil lock piece Clean it all up, inspect your parts ( replace as necessary ) and swap in the new sliders following reverse order. It is down a bit so you'll have to hook it with something and pull it out. After getting everything back together, I took a quick barnstorm run around the lake and OH MA GAWDZ!!! I sorta stopped covered each fork tube with a clean cloth to prevent anything unwanted from going in there. If you don't have a bike jack you can use a standard automotive floor jack with wood under the front of your frame and the back tire blocked. I guess you could put some on the new one and a drop or 2 back in the fork. Put the old srpings, spacers(metal), washers in PS box for storage. If you have new Progressive Springs they look just about the same. If your fork seals are good but you are not sure of the age or quantity of oil in the forks, it is a relatively straightforward job to change it. Let the fork stand vertically on a surface, pour the recommended amount of oil, pump up the forks to remove any trapped air, and then put them down. Inspect the pleated rubber fork boots, if equipped. My cups had ml measurments as well as oz. I used Amsoil(synthetic) med. He will mention Progressive brand springs in the text. At this point you can decide to have it done professionally or do the work yourself. I used the same measuring cups, now empty and wiped clean with paper towels. Did and measured the other side to compare till it gurgled and then did both again till gurlged to make sure I got out as much as possible. Wipe it out with a paper towel and replace with fresh grease with every oil change. Refer to a shop manual to learn all the exact procedures involved. It's really pretty quick and easy to do, and there's no way to get all of the fork oil out without taking them off. Fork oil has a unique set of requirements, and engine oil should never be substituted for fork oil. wt. I have heard of some using a stiff tube as well. 3) Can I Change My Fork Oil Without Removing My Fork Legs? Advertise • When changing the oil, the shop manual says replace it with 330mL of new oil. Actually cutting the top off a broom handle would work just fine. With bike on bike jack and front wheel just off ground. I've since changed again using 15W Fork Oil, the thinner ATF made the front forks kinda "bouncy", the 15W is MUCH firmer and a better ride, for me anyway ( I'm about 170 lbs). remove fork caps pull springs pull fork legs remove dust seals, circlips, shim washers (everything that holds the oil seal in or could hold it in, like a shim washer slipped to the side) fill fork with 10W-40 ('cause I had a bottle sitting there) to the bottom of the cap threads ... object is to have as little air inside as possible This is a more accurate measurement of how much oil is in the forks. Check for signs of fork oil leakage and any grooves in the fork tube wear surfaces where the seals make contact. Turn the steering from its left to right limits to ensure nothing is binding, and check all controls including the throttle for proper operation. Remove wheel 4. There are two factory-recommended procedures for replacing this oil. Just make sure the motorcycle can't roll backward, forward or move sideways. Removing the forks. You would not really need to add oil since the only oil that cam out was what was on the spring…. There is a specific distance which you should maintain between the oil and the fork’s … I recommend the Progresive Springs as money well spent. After I Had the forks painted I performed a fork oil change, took out the large top fork fastener , poured the oil out, I only got 5 oz's per fork out, The dealer gave me 2 bottles so I asked how much oil per fork and its 10.7 oz's, I poured in 5 oz's each then capped them and compressed them 3 times. I have an issue with front forks after my oil change. After that I take cheep Type F tranny fluid and dump it in and pump forks then drain, repeat this till fluid runs clear. Had I known how easy, I would have done it sooner. With the fork leg fully extended, remove the top cap from a leg. Q7. You want to remove the forks. All Models The following procedure is for common conventional damper-rod forks (which are used on many motorcycles) and generic in nature. One requires that the fairing and radio be removed from the Ultra Classic, and the other does not. Just remove the forks and do it manually. I used a long 1/4" carriage bolt and sort hooked the head on spring coil and slid it up till I could hold it with my hand. For many motorcycle owners, changing fork oil is one of those things they never quite get around to. There is spring tension but not real hard too push. Using the fork tube as a slide hammer against the seal, remove the seal and separate the fork tube from the slider. Visit our Disclaimer and Terms of Use page for more information. Shock Therapy Fluid, though many many fork oils and wts. Reinstall the fork legs and other removed components in the reverse order of removal. It's best to drain and fill fork oil from the top because you need to decompress the piston first. Note any shims or washers and spring. This is a messy time consuming process and really isn't necessary for non cartridge type forks if you follow these instructions provided by Stan. I have to take my forks off to replace an upper chrome fork cover on my Vintage with 18k miles, so figure I might as well change the fork oil while apart. Repeat disassembling and reassembling the fork on the second fork … I used some small plastic tubing (aquaium air tubing) rubber banded(real tight heavy duty rubberband) to some stiff wire(I used 3' piece of stiff piano style craft wire). This is the third set of forks on a Honda in my general area that I’ve seen with this fork configuration. Write down the fork height and spring-preload setting then unwind all the preload. Save the wood dowel for use the next time oil changed. OK, I did it with the help of a neighbor, so this was a 2 person deal. Determine if the fork legs have oil drain plugs near the bottom of the legs. worlds better feel, even more so than when I first did the swap. This is where you need a helper. Remove the front wheel, fender, calipers, and any other parts attached to the fork legs. to be removed. First up after removing the forks from your TTR is to remove the gaiters and check that the dust seals are not oily coz, if they are, then you should probably be considering going the whole hog and replacing the seals. Remove the handlebars and carefully pad the front of risers as handlebars will rest there as well, lay them on the padded speedo housing area. Support the motorcycle either on the centerstand (if equipped) or by using a motorcycle jack under the engine. Remove calipers 3. Put old newspapers on the floor under the front end. When I do mine I pull the spring and spacer out, dump the old nasty oil then spray about a 1/2 a can per fork of carb cleaner in them and pump them a few times and then drain. Do the other side same. There is a stop(just goes down a little) so it can be held against stop. Bob and Mark drain the fluid and remove the fork from the Dyna. You may have to move the damping rod in and out to get the oil out. PS instructions say no differnce which end is up or down as long as same. 1- Your choice of fork oil in the amount your particular year/model bike calls for. Remove the top fork nuts and the drain screws - fork oil should drain out. You will need to remove the caps to refill the fork tubes with oil. I emptied mine and pulled the front forks apart, it is surprisingly easy. The book should also recommend an oil level -- the distance from the top of the fork leg to the top of the oil, with the fork fully compressed and without the spring. Ride is firmed up stable, but no jolting, I feel rebound is just way better. The bike is a 2011 Electraglide classic. This should allow you to change the springs out with removing the forks from the bike right? Before you start work, check the owner’s or shop manual to determine what type and viscosity of oil is recommended, as well as the quantity needed for the service. Loosen and remove the pinch bolt from the lower triple clamp and lower the fork leg. 1. I used this as had it already for use on another bike. 1- 3 foot length of craft wire (piano wire or anything thin but fairly stiff) 1- Large (60 cc) syringe (you can probably get one from your vet or a feed store) 2- 1 cup measuring cups. Pour the 356ml into fork tube. Also check for looseness between the fork legs and tubes that would indicate bushing wear. Padding like your very best bath towels to prevent the tank and other parts from being scratched. Place the ring clip on wood dowel and then have helper push down on cap till stops again and place ring clip in place. This was a very easy deal. If you do not have to remove the forks, see our other videos on Front Fork Fluid change. Turn the leg upside down in a drain pan until oil stops flowing out. around to use with as many opinions on what is best as there are for motor oils. Follow the manufacturer’s shop manual recommendations. If you look with a flashlight you may see some oil near where opening is to lower area. Place a drain pan under the fork legs and remove the drain plugs, one side at a time. We will be removing the fork lowers from the Kashima upper tubes, replacing the foam rings, cleaning the dust seals, removing the old dirty oil and putting fresh bath oil back inside the fork. One end has tighter wound spring. Stabilize the front wheel so it can't move side to side. Recommended oil is 10w fork oil. Determine if the fork legs have oil drain plugs near the bottom of the legs. Place a drain pan under the fork legs and remove the drain plugs, one side at a time. Carefull when moving it around and don't knock rubberband off nown in shock tube(this could be a bugger to retrieve). If you have found that the damping seemed a bit weak (on non-adjustable forks), you should consider changing to the next heavier viscosity oil. Fork fluid can be tricky and slippery. Since you are replacing springs and oil, just pull springs up and drain enough oil back down in tube so not to make a mess when removed. Reassemble the fork by replacing the damping rod inside the fork, and putting the clip and dust seal back on the fork. Clean this area so crud won't fall into fork tube. Terms of Service • Repeat same on other side. Yet neglecting this service can result in diminished ride quality, premature bushing wear, and leaking fork seals that allow oil to get on the front brakes. He found them in there and put them back, too. With gold cap still being held by helper. Course same procedure other side. It is readily available from motorcycle shops. If you choose not to change springs just ignore the mentions and move on.]. As an Amazon associate, commissions may be earned by this site from Amazon links herein. Along with balanced volume of fresh fork oil, of proper weight. Refill forks with proper amount of oil … When oil stops coming out, reinstall the plugs using new sealing washers. Maintenance Tips for Vulcans and Other Motorcycles, For Non Cartridge Type Forks (pre 2001 Nomads and Carbed Classics), Copyright © 2015 - 2021 Gadget's Fixit Page. Place stopper cloth back. Clean the spring very very well(I blew off with air hose) slide it into tube, new washer goes in on top of spring, then spacer, then fork cap. Some way of lifting your front tire off the ground. Not sure what fork oil to put in, maybe 15 wt Belray. Either remove front calipers or somehow prevent fork oil from draining on your rotors and pads. And a drop or 2 back in the cap wheel so it ca n't side... And Terms of use page for more information save the wood dowel and then no more pressure under. 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